Dreadball (1st Edition) ...in 2020

I know I'm a bit late to the party, but my Dreadball set has been sitting untouched in my shed since 2016 or so - I remember picking it up for around $50AUD on a clearance sale as I thought it looked worth a punt.

I remember being unimpressed by the minis - they were nowhere near as good as the Bloodbowl ones I coveted in my youth (I say coveted rather than owned - I played a LOT of Bloodbowl using plastic counters proxying for minis). The Dreadball stuff was diminutive, and had repetitive poses.

Digging through my 1st ed box, I wasn't particularly impressed with the stuff inside - it seemed cheap, flimsy, and cut-budget.  The cards and dice seemed rather "got this in a $2 shop" quality.

Anyway, what inspired my to dig it out? Well, Blood Bowl 2 the PC game was $14 on Steam over Christmas and I've been having a great time reliving my youth. (My 4-year-old son actually really enjoys watching it, which is surprising as a turn-based-PC game is rather unspectacular graphics-wise). I noticed that Games Workshop has actually reasonably priced its Blood Bowl release ($150AUD for starter box + $50AUD per team). Well, reasonably compared to its insane prices elsewhere and par for the course for a boardgame.

I was tempted, but... then I recalled the two-hour games, how you'd have to play out turns when you have no hope of doing anything before the half ended, how setup took ages... and the arcane, convoluted, very-1980s rules. I mean - who was I going to play Bloodbowl with? Would I be willing to guide people up the steep learning curve? Was there a simpler option?

Hence, digging out my old Dreadball box.  From my playtests ages ago, I dimly remembered it had only 5 activations, and games flowed as the teams did not reset after a score. It might be possible to finish a game in a third of the time!

I played a few games against myself and was fairly impressed. Whilst the minis are uninspiring, the rules themselves are probably the best bit. Without fully getting into the cards and fouls (the 1st edition box REALLY needed a fast-play/quick reference guide) the game flowed well and was quite exciting. The rulebook itself was easy to read, but badly laid out. I.e. it was easy to understand the rules, once you found them. In addition, the dice rolling and mechanics were quite consistent and modifiers were both minimal and easy (removing or adding dice).

Probably my biggest gripe was that some player positions (guards) cannot pick up the ball at all. This seemed quite contrived, and a step back from Blood Bowl, where even clumsy Ogres have a chance to pick up the ball.  Also, the campaign rules are very lacking compared to the characterful detail of Blood Bowl.

I also think that sci-fi fits the combat-sports-genre better than fantasy, heresy as it is to a old Bloodbowl fan. On the upside, Dreadball box sets are available under-the-odds on ebay, which made the price good despite the rather uninspired sculpts. I picked up a box of some Hammerhead-shark-dudes for $25AUD, then went one better - a complete Dreadball Extreme box set (with three teams, heaps of free agents, and another set of rules/dice/board etc) for $25AUD. Bargain! (Also, the included crates and terrain will be used for other games).

Of those teams, the Bremlin Nebulas (above) showed the blandness and lack of variety of the poses, but I was pleasantly surprised by the sculpts of the Convicts team (below). In addition, the box contents had improved somewhat and the new rubber game mat was quite nice.  I just wish they wouldn't include the unnecessary casualty minis but instead more variety of normal poses (I mean, for a casualty I can just tip a model on its side, put it in the dead box etc).

Obviously Dreadball moved over to 2nd edition a year or two ago, and given Mantic have the rules as a free download I'm not complaining. From my read through, 2nd Ed seem to be an improvement, with teams tweaked, jacks (the allrounder player) made more useful, and the players stat line changed to allow more nuanced variety. Apparently the campaign rules were improved but that wasn't par t of my free downloadable copy.

Anyway, for $100AUD (50 pounds or $67USD) I have 2 sets of fields, dice and counters, as well as 6 teams and assorted free agents.  Enough for a league! Mantic have a Dreadball sale on at the moment, so I'll probably pick up the new rulebook, cards and a few more teams while they are 50% off.

This isn't really a rules review (I could do one when I get my shiny 2nd ed rulebook, but I'm sure there's heaps out there) but I probably will be doing more Dreadball-centric posts as it's a game where I can actually play a round before my kids descend on me.

The 7 Painting Days of Christmas

While 2019 was a bit of a washout as far as gaming/painting etc was concerned, I did find time in the holidays to get some painting done. I've got unpainted 6-year-old minis dating back to B.D. (before my firstborn daughter's birth) and when my son came along...  ...let's just say the backlog hasn't improved.

In counterpoint, I only bought a few minis in 2019 - I couldn't resist Warlord and their Cruel Sea's 1:300 MTBs (coastal warfare is an interest of mine) on sale and I also got a starter pack of Blood Red Skies while I was at it. A rulebook for 40K Kill Team has yet to arrive.  That's pretty much it. So I haven't been adding to the unpainted mountain.

I continue to tinker with homebrew rules in genres of interest; some are in their 4th or 5th iteration, and were started back in 2015! I''m starting to understand Patrick Rothfuss (*actually, no, he still needs to get his finger out). I may post on this soon.

Anyway, for my first 2020 gaming actions - I decided I'd force myself to paint a bit every day. My offspring see me enough in the holidays so for once I feel comfortable telling them to get lost: "No, you CAN'T help daddy paint - do play with some of that expensive Christmas LEGO or I'll dump it."

On the first day of Christmas, I enthusiastically painted....

 First some Confrontation minis. I've had these for years, picking them up for around $10 a pack back when Rackham was suicidally transitioning from their wonderful metals to hideous plastic.

I'm wondering what they would fetch now on the market - I've got all the original unit card, albeit tossed messily into a box.

Obligatory butt cheek shot. My 4-year-old always chuckles when he sees them. "Dad they're the nudie-butt ones!"

I also found a Confrontation orc I forgot to paint when I did them last year. I always prefer red orcs to greenskins. For some reason I find green cockney orcs ridiculous, while red orcs have a menacing feel like Japanese demons.

One the Second Day of Christmas I rather lazily painted....

Some terrain (I suspect a pirated knock-off of old 40K Epic terrain) which will go with my Gunship Vector space gunships and tanks.  After my big day, I decided to go for the low hanging fruit.

On the Third Day of Christmas I painted...

Some Warmachine mercs.  My son dropped one and broke it, and as I was reglueing it without comment, he dropped and broke a second one.  Banishment from my office is apparently a fate worse than death.

On the Fourth Day of Christmas, I painted...

Some Warmachine solos and a few Heroclix. I enjoy slicing up Heroclix and adding different arms etc.  Given I got them for cents each, I can be creative and slice with confidence. I don't understand the guys who kitbash together two $50 GW models....

I think some of these may be from an anime-ish skirmish game called Anima Tactics.  I gave it a swerve as the rules seemed dense, but I picked up some models on sale. The dwarf is another clix. 

On the Fifth Day of Christmas, I painted (but mostly sliced and kitbashed)...

A range of clix, though the lizardmen are Black Cat/Hat I think.  They all got new weapons, courtesy of my Confrontation bitz box. The Judge Dredd villain got a robot arm from AE:WWII.

Then, I made a WW2 female monster-hunting cult using clix. My Perry Medieval Men At Arms sprues spares provided weapons and armoured arms. They will accompany my Secrets of the Third Reich infantry into combat to hunt Nazi undead.

On the Sixth Day of Christmas, I painted...

More Warmachine minis. I dislike Warmachine's gimmicky rules, but steampunk robots, fighting undead pirates lead by a dragon? Yeah, they're cool.

Doing a metallic paint scheme was a bit lazy, as I was not in the mood for painting the usual Scyrah white armour. I think they turned out OK, given the low effort paint jobs I am doing.

On the Seventh Day of Christmas, I only painted...

....Not much, as I was still jaded from doing the Scyrah guys from the day before. Oh well, I've made some inroads on my collection.

The Year Ahead in Painting- I'd LIKE to paint....

- Confrontation - Dainkinee Elves (mongrel job, due to fiddly detail)

- Confrontation - Sessairs (too much skin = pest to shade)

- Confrontation -  Wulfen (lots - these big sculpts are probably quite valuable)

- Warmachine undead (only ~10 Warmachine left, I enjoy painting the chunky cool sculpts) and two heavy Cygnar jacks I picked up on sale
 
- Pulp wizards (from.. Empire of the Dead?)

- Properly detail my ISS toy models I use for sci fi orbital bases

- Paint up small toy dinos (for 15mm) as well as sea creature toys (to be monsters for sub games)

- Warlord French-Indian Wars (some trappers first, then settlers, then a box each of British & French regulars)

- Kitbashing/rebasing/painting the less cool Heroclix, + random models from Helldorado

- Cruel Seas MTBs when they arrive

- Some 1:300 Tumbling Dice jets (both 50s and 70s) - should be a quick easy job

- A handful of 40K Tyrannids (they make good monsters for lots of homebrew rules)

- Kill teams of of 40K Space Marines, IG, Tau, Orks and Eldar

- More Perry medieval warbands for my homebrew Middlehiem rules

- Kitbashing some landships out of 1:700 naval models and tracks from K Mart toy tanks

I probably won't get around to....

- Warbands of Greek hoptites (too much white/skin)

- Warbands of ECW musketeers (discouragingly too many)

 - Robotech veritechs (I'm not keen on assembling/painting 3 minis for a single tabletop unit)

- More SOTR Weird War II squads (I already have enough painted for skirmish gaming and I'm not interested in platoon level gaming)

- More platoons of 15mm sci fi (I already have a heap of armies painted, and I'm not enthusiastic about the scale/genre any more)

- Viking warbands (I got them intending to play SAGA, but lost interest as they simply aren't as cool as the Perry medievals)

My Moby Dick....

- My 500+ LOTR minis, bought by the box when they were uncool (in the lull between LOTR and Hobbit). Given a LOT are metals/heroes and I have ents, trolls etc, they are probably worth a bucketload on ebay, but I LIKE the rules and minis, it's just the task is too daunting to attempt..

I'd say if I paint half of my "I'd like to paint" list then 2020 will be a success...

Anyway, the next post will be about projects.  Due to my inactivity on the blog/DV google group you may assume I'm not doing anything - yet I do some rules tinkering, but I just don't have time to extensively playtest them or write them up.

Gunship Vector: Close Quarters Space Combat

I've slowly drifted away from big ship fleet space combat; my large Full Thrust and Firestorm Armada fleets have laid dormant for years.

However, my EM4 Silent Death starfighters are probably my most-used gaming pieces.  At ~50c each they are certainly the best value-for-use models I own.  Besides serving as supercavitating fighter subs (a niche topic that endlessly fascinates me) they also serve in their original role; as space fighters and strike craft.

A pair of gunships escort a convoy across a moon's surface.  As you can see, they are large craft with multiple crew, capable of carrying a squad of troops or carrying an underslung light vehicle.
My vision of space combat is not majestic, ponderous star destroyers firing point blank broadsides (a la age of sail/Star Wars) but rather ambushes from asteroids, in caves inside asteroids, and skimming over the planet surface.  Inspirations include PC games like Descent, Battlezone 1998, and the chaotic close range MTB vs E Boat duels from WW2 such in books like The Battle for the Narrow Seas.

Sometimes the attackers are not human; here the gunships provide fire support against the carnivorous native inhabitants of the moon.

I've always wondered why (if FLT is a thing) ships would ever duel in deep space; why would battles occur anywhere that was not near a key objective; i.e. planets, stations and asteroid belts?  The coastal warfare of space, if you will.  In this cluttered, close quarters environment, cheap small craft would be viable, able to ambush larger ships who would otherwise effortlessly pick them off in the void of deep space.  Instead of single-crew starfighters who fly like WW2 Spitfires, I envision multi-crew strike craft capable of transporting troops, co-ordinating drones, offering fire support as well as anti-ship capability; similar roles to a present day transport VTOL/gunship. Think a V22 Osprey meets an AH64 Apache meets a naval FAC like an Osa or a PBR. While able to exit and enter atmosphere, they are not "dogfighters" although they would be agile enough in low gravity environments like the the inside of an asteroid or around a small moon.  The Rocinante from the SciFy show The Expanse gives you a good idea of the size of ship; carrying automatic railguns and missiles and capable of transporting squads of troops. (Or about the size of the Milennium Falcon, for those who have not seen the series)

Here a gunship "pops up" to support some infantry emplaced on a hilltop.

At low level gunships are vulnerable to SAMs - here a sneaky scout buggy targets a gunship flight for SAM batteries hidden behind a hill.
Anyway, I've been busy adjusting rules and creating terrain for a range of environments.  I'm working on some space stations (some repurposed ISS kids toys) and asteroids for true space combat, but at the moment I'm playing with low-gravity moon/asteroids. Here, the spacefighters act like helos, transporting/evaccing troops, providing recce, fire support, as well as interdicting ground vehicles and other fighters.  My aim is to have one set of rules for all environments - which means corners will be cut -  however the aim is not realism anyway, but rather realism within my game universe.  That's why we have sci fi and fantasy- to legitimise handwavium! 

Sometimes enemies are both human and nonhuman. Here, a strafing run from a rival merc gunship "brews up" some APCs, forcing the troops to bail out.

Attracted by the vibrations, the local wildlife investigates; but the troops are rescued by a relief column of MBTs as a large transport hovers nearby ready to evac.

As you can see, I used the same simple rubber mats+PVA+sand+paint method I used for my dieselpunk landships game, to quickly whip up some moonscapes.  I'll continue to work on rules and terrain. My tinkering and changing out chunks of the rules has lead to musings on the modular nature of game design - perhaps food for an article - and I should have some space stations and asteroids ready for play soon.

"Adequate" Cheap+Fast 1:300 Terrain with Dieselpunk Tanks

Blog regulars will know I subscribe to the "cheap and nasty" school of painting and terrain - i.e. my theory is it is better to have purpose-built terrain that is made quickly and casually rather than rely on printed paper cutouts, tissue boxes and books under a sheet. Likewise, my painting standard is also pretty poor but I think fielding unpainted or only basecoated minis is a sign of laziness and disrespect for your opponent.  In short: "barely adequate" effort is better than no effort at all.

Here's an example of my terrain for my new dieselpunk tank game  which I whipped up this morning:

French forces approach a stranded landship, intent on capturing it or salvaging it for parts.  

You can see my as-yet-incomplete landship (it's a 1:700 Japanese CV flipped upside down) which obviously needs some turrets and perhaps a control tower (yet to be sourced) and, of course, a paint job.  (My no-unpainted-minis rule does not apply in the privacy of my own solo playtesting sessions!)

From the other direction, Imperial Russian forces have also dispatched a squadron to investigate the stranded landship.

Building the hills took about an hour. With a Stanley knife, I sliced up some of that foam sheeting you get from a camping store (the sort placed under mattresses or tents). I think it cost $10. 

I then coated the top in a mix of water and PVA glue. I sprinkled sand on top (the kids' sandpit comes in handy).

I then sprayed it, using up a $4 can of black spraypaint. Finally, I brushed some el cheapo $2 brown craft paint over the top. 

Whilst it is not amazing, I feel it is very reasonable, for $16 and an hour's effort, and is much better than using paper terrain or books under a sheet or similar.

Russian forces continue to advance on their objective.

As usual, my aim is to show there is a "minimum standard" that is easily achievable, as so much terrain on blogs are amazing masterworks that takes hours and hours for a single piece, that are so detailed that I find them discouraging (I know I can never measure up).  My terrain posts are to encourage the rest of us - the time-poor, money-poor dads who just want to get reasonable-looking stuff on the table, those aiming for adequacy rather than mastery.

A supporting force moves up onto a nearby hill to provide overwatch fire.

The Russians prepare to unload engineers to inspect the landship, but French forces have crested the hill and prepare to engage.

I chose the "flat wedding cake" style layout for my hills to simplify the rules for cover/hulldown/line of sight. It also means the models sit flat on the terrain and don't slide around. 

I may create a matching terrain board (simply a sheet of MDF similarly coated in PVA, sand and painted) to replace the sheet if I have an hour free next weekend.

....Anyway, the kids are clamouring for attention so I'll sign off.  Have fun - and remember, in terrain making there's a broad range between exceptional and awful. There's no shame in inhabiting the "adequate" part of this spectrum.....

Dieselpunk Tankmunda - Arrival

Modern MBTs are boring. It's pretty hard to tell one from the other, and they tend to use very similar weapons and equipment.  The "MBT" has been a staple since late WW2.

But back in the 1930s.... tanks were different.  It's a transitional era of warfare, where designers were trying out radical concepts, rather than merely refining the "meta."

Watching Mortal Engines has fired my interest in wacky dieselpunk vehicles, and a trip to Heroics and Ros quickly secured some 1:300s pre-war/early WW2 vehicles.

I'm going to use out-of-scale tanks to be the "landship carrier" motherships for squadrons of smaller tanks. This is a 15mm Landcruiser Ratte but I'll probably use 1:48 tanks with multiple turrets like the T-35.

Mordhiem/Necromunda-with-Tanks "Tankmunda"
I've always been interested in a tank-centric game; most times tanks are either in small numbers supporting a platoon-level game (Bolt Action) or can be present en-masse (division-level Cold War games) or merely are too generic (FoW).

I want a set of rules where tanks are the stars, where individual tank crews can "level up" and have unique special rules and character, and play linked games like a campaign.

This is a typical "squadron" carried by a mothership tank.  Two light tank troops (cavalry and infantry) as well as medium and heavy troop and logistics support.

I've discussed the idea here but by deciding to go dieselpunk sci-fi, I can use handwavium where needed. I want it to "feel" like a tank game but design-wise it will owe much to a RPG/MMO - i.e. tanks are classes with paper-scissors-rock distinct balance, almost like the mage-tank-dps from fantasy genres.

Basically, my rules will not attempt to be a sim, but merely a warband/Mordhiem-style game which (hopefully) "feels" like tank combat rather than infantry.

I've already started this in 15mm and have workable rules, (playtest here) but I simply cannot afford 15mm models like I could in the era BC (Before Children), so I have turned to 1:300 to allow myself to experiment with different tanks eras in an affordable way.

Some T-35 heavies escort some half-track cargo carriers.

Heroics & Ros 1:300
They are perfectly serviceable, affordable gaming pieces but are not particularly inspiring.  With the exception of some AMC.35s (which were rather nasty) they were reasonably free of annoying bits to trim off. I can certainly recommend Heroics and Ros if you want to explore 1:300 cheaply. (Yes, GHQ are much nicer but are 4x the price - almost as much as 15mm!)

 The AMCs I wasn't impressed with, seen escorting some S.35 mediums.  You can see a counter denoting an in-game status effect (mobility, crew, or weapon damage).




Given the low cost, I'll probably use H&R for two more projects: I want to do a dune-buggy game using modern wheeled LAVs (because I think up-gunned armoured cars are cool!) inspired by the Deserts of Kharak. I've already made a scratch-built land-carrier (using an upside-down 1:700 CV model with tracks added).

I like armoured cars. They just look awesome. And the French seem to be the most energetic proponents of them.

 I may also do a 1950s-70s set of rules where mercenary tank companies fight in Africa starring T55s, Centurions etc (i.e. Arab-Israeli/Indo-Pakistan War tech along with cobbled-together WW2 upgrades, without having to follow historical OoBs) or or possibly a WW2-in-1947 set where I can use Centurions & AMXs against King Tigers and weird what-if tanks.  I'll consider any era when I'm not refighting Normandy, Kursk or Cold War Fulda Gap which seems so beloved of every other tank gamer.

Anyway, more info to follow as I modify my existing rules and redefine the philosophy I want the rules to espouse.

Aerial Rules Revisited (Part 4) - Activation & Playtesting

As I have a bad habit of starting things I don't fini

...I thought I'd kinda "tie off"my thoughts on air combat with playtest results and comments on the movement/activation system. 

Adding on the bare minimum:

I played a 1v1/2v2 with two planes with 6"/12" subsonic/sprint stats. Each plane had only a 20mm gun firing 4"(90d arc) which rolled 3 dice (+1 dice if in the rear 180d arc of the opponent). Both planes were identical.

Planes could attempt to "dodge save" using their pilot skill (4+ for an average pilot). Planes were identical on both sides so no agility modifiers.

Each unsaved hit had a 1-2 no effect, 3-4 damage, 5-6 kill. A damaged plane was -2"subsonic/-4"sprint speed, and -1 to all rolls.  A second damage destroyed the plane.
A non-damaging hit "stuns" a pilot temporarily next turn but has no effect on the aircraft.

Basically a cheap and nasty 40K-ish hit-save-damage system. I wanted to concentrate on movement and activation and not the dice mechanics. Neither did I use any of my detection rules (as I wanted to concentrate on what I was testing).

Playtest verdict:

It was a bit too easy to transition between subsonic and sprint speeds. Perhaps a rule where you have to move at top subsonic speed (i.e. no turns or climbing) before transitioning to sprint speed next turn. Planes just seemed to spurt forward and brake too easily and dramatically, like something from a Robotech cartoon.

I wanted to restrict supersonic maneuver partly realism/G-forces and party to make it a trade off i.e. supersonic-limited maneuver, subsonic-very agile. However there's no reason a supersonic fighter can't climb OR dive OR turn - just not both climb+turn at once.  So I'd ease up on my original restrictions - especially if I had a "transition" phase like mentioned in the paragraph directly above.

The subsonic turns seem stilted... ...but perhaps I am just too wedded to oldschool/ hex based plane games

The subsonic turn just seemed weird; to pivot and move directly forward seemed.... unplane-y. However I may be merely carrying over my prejudices from old aerial games.  I could do a 90d-ttun-at-halfweay then 90d-turn-at-end  like the supersonic move. However I'l need to look at the pros and cons of changing this.

Weirdly, the mechanic I REALLY liked was my activation system, a kind of Bolt Action bastardization. I am not a fan of the Bolt Action activation normally, but my system worked well here. What I WANTED was a semi-chaotic card draw, with better pilots having more cards (thus getting more opportunities to act). However I decided stuffing around with cards was too slow (a key design goal was to speed up the painfully slow aerial rules genre).

So I decided to draw dice from a pot instead, a la Bolt Action.

This is what I did:

DICE VERSION - Modified Bolt Action

A dice is placed in a pot for each plane,  + 1 “high” wild dice + 1 ace dice per ace (each faction uses their own dice colours)

When your colour dice is pulled, pick a plane and roll a Crew Check.

(+) If the Crew Check succeeds, you can move and lock+shoot at a target (in any order)

(-) If the Crew Check fails, you may either (a) make any move, but forgo locking/firing; or (b) lock and fire but move directly straight ahead (at max subsonic speed).

Wingman: you may interrupt the turn sequence and move directly after your wingman if you are not damaged or stunned. Simply remove a dice from the pot and roll it like normal.

High & Fast: if you are the highest (or if tied, the fastest) when the high & fast wild dice is rolled, you can act on it. Also remove one of your dice from the pot and roll both it AND your wild dice – and use the best roll.

Stunned/Damaged: If you are stunned or damaged, -1 from your roll.

TL:DR Basically, you pull one of your dice out of the pot, you roll it. If it's not yours, give it to your opponent and he rolls it. If it beats your crew skill level (4+ for an average pilot) you get to maneuver (turn/climb/dive) AND shoot.

If it fails you only get to choose between moving OR shooting. I.e. move straight ahead, but shoot...   ...or make any maneuver, but miss out on shooting.

This worked really well. It added uncertainty (whose dice would be pulled out, and would you get to make 1 or 2 actions) and also choice (which plane to move, and choosing move vs shoot if you rolled badly).

For a quickly cobbled together mechanic, I really liked it and I can seem myself using it again, perhaps in my helicopter or fighter sub homebrew games.

Anyway, aircraft will be left sitting on the bench for a bit as my dieselpunk tanks have arrived... but I'll get back to this topic, I swear!

Game Design #77: The Dice Mechanics Aren't Important

I'm more and more convinced that the dice rolling mechanics are relatively unimportant as to whether a game is good or not.  Whether you use d6 or d10, whether you add or subtract modifiers, whether you use contested rolls or a fixed target number....     ...it's actually not vital to make your game good. There are other (more important) elements to consider.

The mechanics merely need to be simple, consistent, and (if possible) familiar.

I'm not trying to controversial, just trying to be helpful. I think many game designers overly focus on kewl tricksy dice mechanics where their time could be more usefully spent elsewhere. In fact, when making home rules, the dice rolling mechanics are the last things I consider; in quite a few, I've swapped dice types and mechanics after playtesting, usually to "speed things up" when I realise I could do it simpler, with zero end effect on gameplay.

Why Dice Mechanics Aren't Important
Dice mechanics do not define the style of game. They do not help make tactics more historical.  They do not make players play a particular way, or define the meta.  It's the percentages that matter (lethality) and the activation (who goes first); whether you are using a single d20 or buckets of d6, you can get similar end effects. Dice mechanics don't necessarily make players play a particular way.

Move:Shoot Ratios >>> Dice
Changing the ratio of movement distance to shoot distance can change your game vastly. The "normal" wargame has units move 4-6"and shoot 24-36". The ratio of move:shoot is usually 1:4 or so, favouring shooting. This is mostly (I believe) due to tradition and commonsense impacts of a normal 4x6 game table and small amounts of terrain. However, imagine a game where units moved 1" and fired 20"(sounds like a modern naval wargame).  Now imagine a game where units moved 20"and fired 1"(ancient skirmish/melee?).  The two games would play vastly differently.

Modifiers >>> Dice
The modifiers for your dice rolls are more influential than the dice mechanics and dice types used.
Let's say a game has 3+ (67%) to hit enemies. But if they are in -1 if in cover: they are only hit on a 4+ (50%).  But what if we changed the modifier to -3? They are only hit on a '6' (17%) which means that cover is so massively beneficial that I predict units would seldom move.

Table Setup >>> Dice
Even something as simple as table setup - making your game table devoid of cover vs buildings every 4"with no long sight lines will impact your game experience more than whether you are using a d6 or a d8. A game dev who agonises over which dice size to use but does not consider table setup or deployment rules has made poor use of his time. Even victory conditions (increasingly wargames have ways to win without "kill em all" or "scrum in the middle" can have a bigger impact.

Activation/Initiative >>> Dice
Longtime readers would know how much importance I place on activation and initiative; I was hating on IGOUGO long before it was fashionable. Activation determines the "flow" of the game; the "when" of your movement is just as important as the "where." Simply changing from IGOUGO to alternate activation will make vast changes to your gameplay flow, let alone reaction mechanics, action points/pools. I spend a lot of time on these in other game design posts so I will not rehash their importance here, though I recommend #68 and #69 on momentum and breaking up the turn.

It's the final result that matters: Lethality
At the core, it is the end percentage of success created by the die/dice rolled, rather than how you got there. I tend to look at lethality in combination with modifiers. If your percentages are simple it's actually quite easy to predict how your game will "pan out" before you even playtest.

 Now I'm not saying that the topics above are the only ones to consider; nor am saying what dice resolution you use is completely irrelevant. I'm just saying it should be a long way down your list of priorities.  

Best Practice: Lowering the Barrier to EntryBasically, dice mechanics should keep the skill floor low (i.e. the knowledge you need to be able to play) with very little knowledge needed. You should be able to pick up dice and chug them without much thought. Simplicity, consistency, familiarity are all good.

Simple (KISS)
Basically, as this means rolls are uncomplicated as you can get.  After all, dice rolling detracts from the actual "meat" of gameplay - the decision making. Unless you are using a dice pool or some sort of system where you "game" the dice, every minute spent on dice is a minute not spent on decision making or tactics. Computers can do this instantly, under the hood so to speak. But wargamers manually rolling dice take up a lot of game time.  If you are spending more time rolling dice than moving minis, then something has gone awry.

Ideally, I should be able to absent-mindedly chug the dice while thinking about my next move, just noting the results at the end. 

As an example of what not to do: I remember Silent Death had a dice system using d4s, d6s, d8s and d10s (even d12s and d20s). Each weapon had a different rule and even different combinations of dice.  I.e. "for a blaster, roll 2d6 + 1d8 and use the highest two dice for the "to hit"; then use the middle dice for damage." But a phaser might roll 2d10 + a d12, use the lowest two dice "to hit"and the highest two dice for damage.  They were so proud how they managed to combine the "to hit"and "to damage"into a single roll...  ...but didn't notice they'd actually made it more frickin complicated!
This is a classic example of how trying to be overly clever with dice mechanics actually made the game worse.


Consistency
I've used the example of Bag the Hun (and almost any TFL ruleset) vs say Warmachine. In BtH, the game uses seven completely different mechanics to resolve actions. That's incredibly messy and you need to remember both how (and when) you need to use a particular method. In Warmachine, you pretty much use 2d6 vs a target number in every situation.  Consistency means you only need to learn one set of dice mechanics.

Familiarity
There's a reason games like Bolt Action and Flames of War merely uses a thinly disguised version of WH40K's dice rolling mechanics. Or why 40K hasn't changed much over decades. Familiarity with a system lowers the barrier for entry - a player instantly can grasp the "feel" of the game and there is little new knowledge needed. You don't need to reinvent the wheel, and in most cases it doesn't benefit your players anyway.

 But.... what about Dice Pools and Probability Curves?  : Interesting but Messy
Obviously a single d10 and 2d6 are not the same. Adding dice together (or using buckets of dice) can "smooth" the rolls, making them more predictable.  The buckets of dice method (throwing handfuls of dice with say a 4+ or 5+ as a success) does something similar.  But for a budding game designer, they can be a pain to balance.  A +1 modifier on a single d10 is 10%. On a d6 is is a flat 17%.  But modifiers on 2d6, for example, are not equal depending on your target number. Changing a +1 from a 7+ to an 8+ on 2d6 changes it from 58% to 42%.  A +1 changing 11+ to 12 on a 2d6 is 8% to 3%.
The +1 modifier does not have the same "value."   If this is confusing, then it's a good reason why these methods are not ideal for the amateur game designer.  Whilst I like managed probability, unless you have a compelling reason to use these methods (or love math), they make game balancing/tweaking far more difficult. I do like dice pools (which can add depth to gameplay through resource management aspects) but they do add to the game's complexity/play time and "mental cost."

Anyway, I hope I've shown how agonizing over which dice to use is fairly unimportant in the big scheme of things.  Focus on other stuff - starting with a mission statement/rationale aka success criteria, consider how all the elements (move/shoot, activation/initiative, table setup, deployment, lethality, etc) will combine to make players play the game using tactics you envision.  Ruthlessly keep to your original goals - e.g. if your aim is a fast play game, consider hard before you add ANY complication that does not promote your core philosophy.  Sometimes a cool mechanic is actually not the best for the specific game. This is especially true of dice mechanics.  Think about the big picture, and keep the dice rolling simple, consistent, and "under the hood."